Knowing what to wear for my body type has been instrumental in helping pursue my passion of helping women feel like they can conquer their world through clothes. I figured out my body type through understanding my 5 body elements which give me clues as to which design lines and colors work best for my body. Once I understood the clues the dots were connected.
For example, I never like the feeling I get when wearing capris. As soon as I put them on, I take them off. The reason is because my legs are significantly shorter than my torso. I didn’t know this until I actually measured my Body Proportions.
The outfit I’m analyzing in this blog post is one of my favorite outfits. Whenever I wear it I always get a lot of compliments. I designed and created the blouse and pants. I’ve been designing and sewing since I was 10 years old. I keep sewing because I love doing it and second I had a hard time finding ready-to-wear clothes that fit my Body Elements and style. You’ll find out why when I talk about each piece of clothing.
Joy’s Body Elements
As a review, these are Joy’s Body Element clues:
- Body Shape — between S and A (Body Shape)
- Curved clothes silhouette
- Horizontal lines — Place them in my shoulder, waist and mid-hip areas; never at my hips
- Vertical Lines — Place them through my hip area
- Face Shape — Rectangle (Face Shape)
- Angular design lines, prints and accessories
- Color Skin, Hair, Eyes — High Color Contrast (Color Skin, Hair, Eyes)
- Favorite Colors — Red, Royal Blue, Fuchsia
- Color Combinations (other colors) — Triatic
- Color Combinations (relative lightness and darkness) — High contrast
- First Scale Clue — Large
- Body Proportions — Long between chin/bust and bust/waist, short between knees/floor (Body Proportions)
- Horizontal lines — Place them between her chin/bust and bust/waist; don’t place them between my knees/floor
- Vertical lines — Place them between her knees/floor; limit them between my chin/bust and bust/waist
- Second Scale Clue — Decrease overall scale between knees/floor; increase it between chin/bust and bust/waist
- Body Frame Size — Small (Body Frame Size)
- Third scale clue — Small
- Scale Strategy — Small/Medium (Scale Strategy — Bringing It All Together)
- Decrease scale to small between her knees/floor
- Increase to medium between her chin/bust and bust/waist
What To Wear For My Body Type -- Blouse
I created this blouse pattern when I was going to school for my BS degree in Apparel Design. It was in a commercial pattern alteration class. I have since created several other blouse designs from it.
I had this fabric around for many years after finding it at the LA Fabric mart. It has two of my favorite colors: red and royal blue, the overall print shape is angular and it’s made out of silk. I finally created it several years after I moved to Roseville.
Design Line & Color Analysis
Silhouette
The first design line I look for in any piece of clothing is the silhouette. I determine it by looking at the difference between the shoulders/waist, waist/hips and hips/shoulders. There are two categories: angular and curved. A silhouette is considered angular when the shoulders, waist and hips appear to be the same width. On the other hand, a silhouette is considered curved when the waist is significantly smaller than the shoulders and hips.
My Body Shape gives me clues as to which category I should wear. My Body Shape is between an S and A. Today I’m much closer to an S because as I have gotten older my hormones have changed. I’ve lost muscle in my hips and thighs. I’ve also gained fat in my waist. One thing that hasn’t changed is my waist is smaller than both my shoulders and hips which puts me into the curved silhouette category.
This blouse has a curved silhouette created by the side seams curving in and the darts placed in the front and back. The silhouette of this blouse works perfect for my Body Shape.
Horizontal Lines
The next design lines I look for in my outfits are horizontal lines. They stop the eye, emphasize the area and make it appear wider and shorter. My Body Shape and Body Proportions give me clues as to the placement of these design lines.
For my Body Shape, because I’m in between an S and A Body Shape I want to avoid them at my hip because they will make this area appear even wider. However, I do want them to be placed around my shoulders, waist and mid-hip.
For my Body Proportions, I’m long between my chin/bust and bust/waist. I want horizontal lines in these areas because they will make these areas appear shorter creating better overall balance.
This blouse has one horizontal line which is created by the collar. This is a perfect place for one because it brings attention to my shoulder area, makes it appear wider, creating overall balance with my hips. At the same time it makes the area between my chin/bust appear shorter. The horizontal lines in this blouse work perfectly for my body.
Vertical Lines
Then I look for vertical design lines. They move the eye up and down and make the area appear thinner and longer. My Body Shape and Body Proportions give me clues as to the placement of these design lines.
For my Body Shape I want to place vertical design lines through my hip area. On the other hand, I don’t want them to go from my shoulders to mid-hip because they will make this area appear even thinner and my hips appear even wider.
For my Body Proportions I don’t want them just in my torso area because it will make it appear even longer. I do want them in my leg area because it will make them appear longer.
This blouse has two sets of vertical design lines: center front opening and darts which go from under the bust to the hem which help create a curved silhouette. Both of these vertical design lines work well for my body when coupled with the horizontal lines in the whole outfit. The center front opening vertical lines are hooked to the horizontal lines created by the collar and belt. The vertical dart lines start below the bust and stop at the belt. If these vertical design lines didn’t have the horizontal lines then they might not work on their own.
Shape Of Design Lines
I also look at the shapes of design in the clothes. This is the design constructed within the clothes, for example: collar, pockets, lapels, cuffs, shape of center front opening and prints to name a few. Design line shapes come in two categories: angular and curved. Angular design lines have angles and straight lines. While a curve design line has no angles.
My Face Shape gives me clues to which category works best for me. I have a combination of a rectangular and a triangle. My face is rectangular down to my jaw and then my chin goes into a point. As a result my Face Shape falls into the angular category which means my best design line shape is angular.
This blouse has four design line shapes: collar, center front at the hem, cuffs and print. Because I designed this blouse I made sure all the design line shapes are angular.
Colors
My favorite colors are red, royal blue and fuchsia. Of these, red is my favorite color. I always make sure I wear red on days I’m not feeling 100%. I get the clue which colors work for me from the color of my Skin, Hair and Eyes.
The color of my Skin, Hair and Eyes also give the clue for color combinations and the relative lightness and darkness of those colors. It’s determined by the difference in color of my Skin, Hair and Eyes. This is called a color contrast profile. I have light skin and dark hair and eyes. This means I have a high color contrast profile. I can handle high contrast and it’s important that I do. As a result I wear triadic (every fourth color on the color wheel) and complementary (two colors exactly opposite on the color wheel) color combinations and there’s high contrast between the color combinations.
The color combinations in the print are a combination of triadic: red, blue, yellow; and complementary: red and green. There’s also white and black which brings in the high color contrast. The colors and color combinations in this print are perfect for me.
Scale
The scale of prints and accessories is the last aspect I look at. You will find there are 5 levels of scale:
- Small
- Medium/Small
- Medium
- Medium/Large
- Large
The combination of the color of my Skin, Hair and Eyes; Body Proportions and Body Frame Size combined together give me which scale level I should wear. Since the color of my Skin, Hair and Eyes are high contrast, my scale clue is large. I have a small Body Frame Size which translates into a scale clue of small. I combine these clues, meaning my overall scale is medium. Then that scale is adjusted for Body Proportions.
The print on this blouse has a medium/large scale. Because I have a long torso I adjust my overall medium scale up to medium/large. The print of this blouse is perfect for me.
What To Wear For My Body Type -- Pants
I designed this pant pattern 15 years ago. I adjusted the pattern as my body has changed through gain and loss of weight, and many other pants I had created. These are one of the ones that fit the body I’m living in now. I feel like I’m about 10 pounds overweight. I know many of you believe I’m already thin enough but remember (from the last section) I have a small Body Frame Size.
There are two reasons I create most of my pants. First my body silhouette is curved and it’s hard to find non-black curvy fit pants. Second, even though my legs are shorter than my torso, most pants in the ready-to-wear market are too short by about an inch or two. Third, I like woven fabrics over knits. I have side-saddle at the top of my thighs and don’t like to emphasize them, which knits do. Finally, I like wearing natural fibers like cotton, rayon, silk and wool best. This pair of pants is silk and lined with rayon.
Design Line & Color Analysis
Silhouette
I designed these pants with a curvy silhouette which is perfect for my curvy Body Shape.
Horizontal Lines
There are three horizontal lines: top of waistband, bottom of waistband and hem. The waistband works for me because they bring emphasis to my waist and create two horizontal lines making my torso appear short. Because I currently mostly wear flats, the hem is about ½ inch off the floor. By having this length of pants, my legs appear longer. All three horizontal lines work for my body.
Vertical Lines
This pair of pants has two sets of vertical lines: the seam to create the opening and the center front and back crease lines on the legs. The seam that creates the front opening moves the eye away from my hips and makes the area appear thinner. The center front and back creases on the legs help make my legs appear longer creating better balance with my torso.
What To Wear For My Body Type -- Shoes
I love shoes. The problem is my feet are narrow and nowadays it’s hard to find interesting shoes. Also since I’ve been on my feet 8 hours a day for the last 11 years, my feet start hurting. So shoes aren’t easy for me to find. I got the idea I could wear oxford shoes because I could wear a medium shoe with orthotics and tie them to the maximum tightness. I found these shoes on Amazon. I didn’t find any I liked on macys.com.
Design Line & Color Analysis
Design Line Shape
Because I have an angular Face Shape, I look for square or pointed toe shoes. These shoes have a pointed toe, which is perfect for me.
Scale
One of the reasons why I didn’t find any shoes I liked at macys.com is because most oxfords there have a high sole which puts the scale of the shoe too high for me. With my legs being short between my knees/floor the scale of prints and accessories decrease to small/medium. The scale of these shoes are in that range making them perfect for me.
What To Wear For My Body Type -- Necklace
I buy most of my necklaces at Macys. Many of their store brands: INC, Alfani, Style Co and Charter Club have a great selection. I also like Anne Klein. I bought this necklace 4 to 5 years ago and can’t remember the brand. All I remember is when I saw it and I knew I needed it, because of the shape and tone of the jewel stones, and it would go with many of my outfits.
Design Line & Color Analysis
Shape Of Design Lines
The stones on the necklace all have an angular shape perfect for my angular Face Shape.
What To Wear For My Body Type -- Belt
When I lost 20 pounds, I started to wear belts again. I always loved wearing them, but never really knew why. Now that I understand the clues my body gives me, I get it now. Accessories can also enhance an outfit, but more importantly it can add to the overall design lines to create better overall balance.
Design Line & Color Analysis
Horizontal Lines
This belt is wide so horizontal lines are created on the top and bottom. This brings emphasis to my waist and makes it appear wider, balancing out my hips. They also help make my torso appear shorter.
Shape Of Design Lines
The buckle of a belt has a shape which is either angular or curved. Since my Face Shape is angular I look for angular buckles, but they aren’t always easy to find. This buckle can be considered angular (straight lines) and curved (curved corners). Because every other aspect of design lines on the whole outfit reflects my body’s clues, this variance works.
Final Thoughts
Learning what to wear for my body type has been a game changer in helping me feel like I can conquer my world. Yes, many times during the day I don’t feel 100% confident. But wearing the right design lines and colors for my body helps me power through these feelings. I learned that most people feel the same way. The difference between the ones who are able to pursue their passions and create impact and the ones who don’t, is the ones who do power through those feelings. They don’t let those feelings stop them. When I wear clothes that help me feel like I can conquer my world, I have an easier time powering through those feelings.
Next week Sam will be sharing an outfit she bought on macys.com. She needs new clothes because many of her old ones are starting to wear out. Now that she understands what to wear for her body type, she wants to replace one that doesn’t make her feel like she can conquer her world. The post is called What To Wear For My Body Type — Sam.
Wear Your Greatness!!
